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TheMorlock
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Quote:
Originally Posted by [H]ard|On View Post
Is there a commonly sold enclosure from Frys or something that will fit over the base if I drill some holes?

How long do these tubes last?

IN the air force we used a freq counter built in the 50's that used nixie tubes and it still worked fine in 1982
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Old 06-22-2012, 12:27 AM TheMorlock is offline  
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gee
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Originally Posted by Forever Domon View Post
If i didnt think code mayhem would come to my house and take a shit on my porch, id make cool wooden enclosures for them and ship em out.
I don't think he actually can - with the ass pounding he's been given over the years, I wager he's pretty much incontinent. He might drip aids on your doorstep though..

Go for it - I'll look at the PCB files today and take all the critical numbers, maybe even throw a Sketchup model together if you want to use one. If the enclosure is super nicely done and the clock looks really good with it, I might trade a clock for an enclosure.
Old 06-22-2012, 05:34 AM gee is offline  
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Also: I got a couple PMs from people, I'll start putting a list together sometime this afternoon.
Old 06-22-2012, 05:36 AM gee is offline  
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no.
Old 06-24-2012, 04:14 PM _mike_ is offline  
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thanks though.
Old 06-24-2012, 04:14 PM _mike_ is offline  
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Baloneyflaps.
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I would totally want one if they were blue
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Old 06-24-2012, 04:21 PM Baloneyflaps. is offline  
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Originally Posted by Baloneyflaps View Post
I would totally want one if they were blue
If you manage to replace the neon gas in a nixie tube with argon, you'll get a blue nixie tube. A neon sign maker might be able to do it, a labratory glassmaker definitely would. Probably won't be cheap at all, but if you've got money to blow, it'd be awesome.

Anyway, 3 people interested... Gotta build 10 to make it worthwhile doing, and I'd like to get 7-8 orders before I do it. Buying electronics components and PCBs in low quantities sucks, if I only build a few it'll cost about $20 more per clock.
Old 06-24-2012, 06:24 PM gee is offline  
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can you tell me how much total (estimate is fine) i'm looking at for an assembled clock shipped to the US?
Old 06-24-2012, 07:05 PM illig is offline  
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Code: [M]ayhem
 
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why don't you build a cock instead and ram it up your ass you stupid fuck
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Old 06-24-2012, 07:08 PM Code: [M]ayhem is offline  
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Forever Domon
 
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I don't think he actually can - with the ass pounding he's been given over the years, I wager he's pretty much incontinent. He might drip aids on your doorstep though..

Go for it - I'll look at the PCB files today and take all the critical numbers, maybe even throw a Sketchup model together if you want to use one. If the enclosure is super nicely done and the clock looks really good with it, I might trade a clock for an enclosure.
i can knock some out. Give me interior XYZ for the parts and thatll be good enough, ill style em on the fly, make a good mix of different ones and people can pick
Old 06-24-2012, 07:29 PM Forever Domon is offline  
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can you tell me how much total (estimate is fine) i'm looking at for an assembled clock shipped to the US?
Probably around $110 US, add another $10 if you want the thing sent UPS/Fedex/etc instead of regular airmail.
Old 06-25-2012, 10:11 AM gee is offline  
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i can knock some out. Give me interior XYZ for the parts and thatll be good enough, ill style em on the fly, make a good mix of different ones and people can pick
scanned PDF with the clock dimensions, lemme know if it's adequate: http://www.filedropper.com/nixiedimensions
Old 06-25-2012, 10:52 AM gee is offline  
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Forever Domon
 
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scanned PDF with the clock dimensions, lemme know if it's adequate: http://www.filedropper.com/nixiedimensions
you give better dimensional drawings that 80% of the engineers with masters degrees that i work with. Come replace one of them.

That was quite refreshing, and provides every detail I could possibly need.

The hour and minute sets will probably have to be poked with a pencil/pin etc in any reasonable case, 1/32nd is way to small of an outset to do anything else.

DC power jack will also end up being recessed, but 1/2 inch hole should cover just about any plug out there. A little more precision would be nice there though, as half inch is pretty huge. Would be nice to have a snug fit hole for the connector if the DC adapter is a fixed plug.

This is going to be a pita to fit without a device, but ill do my best to mock something up
Old 06-25-2012, 11:09 AM Forever Domon is offline  
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DarkHelmet
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gee View Post
I dunno if anyone remembers these things from 5 years back:



(apologies to darkhelmet for stealing his picture/bandwidth)
Hey thats my clock!

Meh, I don't pay for bandwidth

Quote:
Originally Posted by gee View Post

I came across the box of leftover nixie tubes in my basement earlier, I've got enough of them left over to do about 10 clocks

So, anyone interested?

Gee, put me down for 2 of the kits, I've had a few people ask about them, and I'll give them as gifts.

Clocks still rocking on top of my stove:

Old 06-25-2012, 12:04 PM DarkHelmet is offline  
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gee
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Forever Domon View Post
you give better dimensional drawings that 80% of the engineers with masters degrees that i work with. Come replace one of them.

That was quite refreshing, and provides every detail I could possibly need.

The hour and minute sets will probably have to be poked with a pencil/pin etc in any reasonable case, 1/32nd is way to small of an outset to do anything else.

DC power jack will also end up being recessed, but 1/2 inch hole should cover just about any plug out there. A little more precision would be nice there though, as half inch is pretty huge. Would be nice to have a snug fit hole for the connector if the DC adapter is a fixed plug.

This is going to be a pita to fit without a device, but ill do my best to mock something up
I'm just a lowly B.Eng, but I know that if I don't draw a proper set of dimensions for something, the machine shop won't ask for clarification - they'll just make it wrong.

The DC adapter I plan to use doesn't have a dimension for the outer part of the plug - even if the hole is too big, it'll be at the back of the clock and out of sight so it's not a huge issue.

For the switches, I can get another switch that pokes out about 0.15" past the edge of the clock but depending on how the clock gets installed into the cases you're making, that might create its own share of problems. Using a pin/toothpick/etc to poke the switches through holes in the case is perfectly fine.

I do have a crappy prototype clock I could put back together and send your way. Only problem is it uses a different DC jack.
Old 06-25-2012, 12:26 PM gee is offline  
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