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lollersk8s
HOLY FUCK I AM RETARDED
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jehannum View Post
All dogs are retarded.

Some certainly more than others.

I miss the one my roommate had, it was retarded in the best way possible. May or may not get a rott/shepherd puppy, but it's nice not to step in dogshit while mowing, or deal with all the fucking hair (he had a malamute, the sheddiest breed of all).
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Originally Posted by she nice
i do drink but it's not as effective for immediate relief
Old 03-04-2014, 01:49 PM lollersk8s is offline  
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RazorWind
 
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That doesn't mean anything. The starter requires a solid ground connection, in addition to the big meaty red power wire. Unless he ascertained that both are good, it's not an effective test, and it's almost impossible to conclusively test the engine ground wiring without detailed knowledge of how many there are and where they attach.

There's no need to build your own "grounding kit," really. Just make sure that the stock engine chassis grounds are in place and not corroded or broken. If they are, you just replace them with some big, thick, and meaty wire with ring terminals soldered on the ends.

IIRC, there are four of them. They're fat (2 or 4 gauge maybe?) brown wires with ring terminals on the ends. One on top of the transaxle, one under the intake manifold, one kind of over on the right side somewhere, and a fourth on the exhaust manifold side somewhere. The factory shop manual discusses their specific locations and how to check them.

Edit: The engine isn't actually seized, right? Like, you can turn it with a wrench on the crank pulley bolt?
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Old 03-04-2014, 01:50 PM RazorWind is offline  
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GhEttOrAiD
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Yes it turns

Ill dig up the link on the diy grounding kit idk it makes sense to me
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Old 03-04-2014, 01:54 PM GhEttOrAiD is offline  
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GhEttOrAiD
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http://www.mr2.com/forums/threads/38...-car-right-now

not to suggest that everything you read on the internet is true but it makes sense
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Old 03-04-2014, 02:02 PM GhEttOrAiD is offline  
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lollersk8s
HOLY FUCK I AM RETARDED
 
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You better make some redundant grounds
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Originally Posted by she nice
i do drink but it's not as effective for immediate relief
Old 03-04-2014, 02:08 PM lollersk8s is offline  
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RazorWind
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GhEttOrAiD View Post
http://www.mr2.com/forums/threads/38...-car-right-now

not to suggest that everything you read on the internet is true but it makes sense

I've read that thread before. Most of what it says is true, and in fact that's what I just told you to do.

The difference is, first, there is actually more than one ground wire in the engine bay from the factory. I know there are at least two, and I'm pretty sure there are four. The shop manual has detailed instructions for inspecting them.

Second, you don't need to add a ground cable in the frunk if the one that's already there is clean and in good condition. Detach it from the battery and use a little piece of sandpaper inside the terminal, and on the battery's terminal. Put it back on. Done.

You could accomplish the same thing Tom's thread tells you to do for $0 by just removing all the stock ground cables, sanding the terminals lightly, and then reinstalling them. No need for new wires at all, unless one of the original ones is missing.

Edit: I just remembered: the ground cable on the right connects to the engine side cover mounting point. IIRC, it's a black wire with yellow stripe.

That makes at least three:
1. On top of the transaxle. Connects to the aft firewall, as I recall.
2. Under the intake manifold. Also connects to the after firewall, I think.
3. Right side of the engine. I think the lower end is down near the alternator somewhere. The upper end goes on one of the tabs for the right-side engine side cover.
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Old 03-04-2014, 02:14 PM RazorWind is offline  
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GhEttOrAiD
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yea we're basically on the same page then
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Old 03-04-2014, 02:42 PM GhEttOrAiD is offline  
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I'd check the positive battery cable, too. I've had those fail on two different cars (a Neon and my 300ZX). Both had corrosion that had worked its way into the cable, from a terminal, and the resistance that resulted from that caused the voltage to drop down near the other terminal (about 7V on my Z, and about 3V on the neon). Both caused no-start conditions.
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1992 300ZX: Not stock, 433 RWHP
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Old 03-04-2014, 02:56 PM Jehannum is offline  
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GhEttOrAiD
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Yeah, the positive battery cable is probably like 14 feet long too
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Old 03-04-2014, 02:57 PM GhEttOrAiD is offline  
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#804  

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Welp car is safe and sound at the only MR2 outfit that isn't 5 hours away (and the one that's 5 hours away is booked until 2023)

Overall he wasn't happy with what he saw but expects the damage *just to get the car running, not to address the other hack jobbery he pointed out* to be under $500. Said all of the grounds in the engine bay looked fine and were fully intact.
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Old 03-04-2014, 10:37 PM GhEttOrAiD is offline  
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mikeawesome
Baloneyflaps is my lord. I have asked him into my heart.
 
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did he say what the problem was
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Old 03-04-2014, 10:41 PM mikeawesome is offline  
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He estimated 3 hours of shop time to diagnose + install a brand new oem starter (billing the starter at 200, I found it online for 140)

He hasn't actually gotten into it yet but I'll have an answer tomorrow morning.

But he pointed out a lot of distressing problems. Did say that $5000 was the right price for the car though.
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Old 03-04-2014, 10:43 PM GhEttOrAiD is offline  
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mikeawesome
Baloneyflaps is my lord. I have asked him into my heart.
 
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n2b
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Old 03-04-2014, 10:49 PM mikeawesome is offline  
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lollersk8s
HOLY FUCK I AM RETARDED
 
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Distressing problems being a top and bottom end rebuild?
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Originally Posted by she nice
i do drink but it's not as effective for immediate relief
Old 03-05-2014, 12:09 AM lollersk8s is offline  
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#809  

GhEttOrAiD
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Wasn't happy with the wiring job on the ECU

Spotted that my shift linkage transmission side was missing a bolt

Intercooler fan was not wired to anything

The list goes on. To make it "OEM quality" would be thousands of dollars and weeks of work. Hoping I can do this little by little.
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Old 03-05-2014, 12:13 AM GhEttOrAiD is offline  
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