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GhEttOrAiD
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oh good thing i checked back before the sun went down

ill get that pic now
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[QUOTE=BlisterDick;25482810][b]PLZ keep door unlock for roach and spider[/b][/QUOTE]
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Old 03-21-2014, 08:09 PM GhEttOrAiD is offline  
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GhEttOrAiD
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Idk if this really does you any good... I will probably have to squirt some soapy water around to learn anything conclusive

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Old 03-21-2014, 08:21 PM GhEttOrAiD is offline  
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GhEttOrAiD
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alright mechanic insists that I re test the car when its ice cold
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Old 03-22-2014, 03:47 AM GhEttOrAiD is offline  
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mikeawesome
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got my beef simmering
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Old 03-22-2014, 03:50 AM mikeawesome is offline  
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GhEttOrAiD
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here's a recap for you mike

if the results are dramatically different than when warm then I p much won the thread after all this shit talkery about "no diff between hot and cold"

but I also have to buy a new motor

I would prefer to lose and have the compression test out exactly the same and me and my mechanic are idjits
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Old 03-22-2014, 03:51 AM GhEttOrAiD is offline  
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mikeawesome
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well i hope you find out what the problem is
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Old 03-22-2014, 03:58 AM mikeawesome is offline  
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GhEttOrAiD
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so you can RIP MR2
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Old 03-22-2014, 04:00 AM GhEttOrAiD is offline  
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Old 03-22-2014, 07:03 AM Sup is offline  
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Where does the upper of the two lines that go off toward the charcoal canister go?

Your routing for those two lines for the charcoal canister is totally different from stock. I'd start investigating there.

Also, your hose for the blowoff valve is ridiculously long. Check the condition of that carefully.
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Old 03-22-2014, 10:39 AM RazorWind is offline  
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RazorWind View Post
Where does the upper of the two lines that go off toward the charcoal canister go?

Your routing for those two lines for the charcoal canister is totally different from stock. I'd start investigating there.

Also, your hose for the blowoff valve is ridiculously long. Check the condition of that carefully.

it goes to somewhere on the fill tube apparently.

When I got the car originally BOTH vac lines coming off of the intake manifold were going to it which was doing absolutely nothing and eventually resulted in a consistent gasoline stank
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Old 03-22-2014, 10:42 AM GhEttOrAiD is offline  
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http://imgur.com/a/dz7YY#0

cold compression is fine

however, after putting everything back together it ran as if the car was still warm (smooth idle no stumbling)

Maybe this is some sort of strange oiling issue
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Old 03-22-2014, 12:45 PM GhEttOrAiD is offline  
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BORKED

thought i was getting flagged down by a cop but he actually totally ignored me even when I apologized (you can't hear it I guess but the BOV was whistling super loud)

audio AND video quality on this dashcam has seriously taken a shit and it hasn't even been a year... I'm gonna have to change my review on amazon
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Old 03-22-2014, 12:53 PM GhEttOrAiD is offline  
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GhEttOrAiD View Post
http://imgur.com/a/dz7YY#0

cold compression is fine

however, after putting everything back together it ran as if the car was still warm (smooth idle no stumbling)

Maybe this is some sort of strange oiling issue

Those compression numbers are actually a little low; it's supposed to be ~164. You've got one below 150. It's possible that it really is a compression problem, but unlikely, IMO. You've got so much other flaky shit going on that seems more likely to cause this, and cheap pressure gauges aren't known for their accuracy.

Try this, though:

1. Unplug the vacuum hose that actually does go to the charcoal canister. Plug the end of it with something, like a pencil.
2. Start the engine and observe idle. Maybe drive it around the block.
3. Find the other end of that other hose, and plug that one with a pencil as well.
4. Test it again.
5. If either of these measures results in proper behavior, that's your indication that the hose you just plugged was the source of your leak.
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Old 03-22-2014, 01:06 PM RazorWind is offline  
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GhEttOrAiD
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he only ran the charcoal canister lines "correctly" the last time I visited a few days ago, prior to this past visit they were both folded in half with zip ties.

Since he switched the hoses around this past visit I no longer have fuel stench.
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Old 03-22-2014, 01:13 PM GhEttOrAiD is offline  
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GhEttOrAiD View Post
he only ran the charcoal canister lines "correctly" the last time I visited a few days ago, prior to this past visit they were both folded in half with zip ties.

Since he switched the hoses around this past visit I no longer have fuel stench.
What you have there is not actually correct, though.

The line from the manifold to the canister is supposed to have a VSV in it. At some times, it allows fuel vapor from the canister to pass through, and other times it doesn't. What you have instead is just an open line that always allows air through.

What I suggested is to just plug that whole line, so that it never allows air through, and see if that makes any difference to your problem. If so, you know that you need to put that VSV back in and get the hoses right.

Edit: Also, when hunting for vacuum leaks, soapy water won't help you. A vacuum leak is a spot where air is being sucked IN to the engine, not leaking out. You wouldn't get any bubbles or anything right there. What you CAN use, though, is an unlit propane torch. The propane in that area will provide extra fuel for the engine as it passes through the extraneous hole, making the engine idle faster.
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