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Tex Arcana
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Quote:
Originally Posted by shmoblar View Post
It is very close with HIDs but an led is much easier to use. No need for super high voltage ballasts and can be cycles as quickly as want. Try strobing an HID and see how long the ballast lasts. LEDs though are a bit tougher on heat management but are a lot cheaper to manufacture and power.. I dont have too much experience with HIDs but right now a 35w led vs a 35w hid are pretty similar but while HID tech has more or less reached a peak, new and more efficient leds are being pumped out every year. Pretty much, If led hasent surpassed hid yet, it will sooner or later.

Standard halogen is a fossil. A 35w LED judging by aa buttdyno 3x brighter then a 55w halogen at pretty similar curents.

If your voltages are the same, your currents are vastly different: P=IV, or I=P/V, meaning at 12v, the halogen is drawing about 4.6 amps, and the LED is drawing about 2.92. Pretty significant difference.

But, yeah: LEDs are the wave. And you'll have halogens/incandescents as well--try running an LED or CFL in an oven, at least 'til they overcome that little detail.

edit: I wonder what it would take to retrofit a standard halogen headlight unit to LED...
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Old 04-27-2011, 05:48 PM Tex Arcana is offline  
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gee
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how are you making sure that all three batteries are properly connected in parallel?

if the batteries have any length variation, your shorter batteries might not make proper contact. Unless they're well matched, you're putting enough force on them to compress them, or the copper "tripods" a bit in your design.
Old 04-28-2011, 04:46 AM gee is offline  
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how are you making sure that all three batteries are properly connected in parallel?

if the batteries have any length variation, your shorter batteries might not make proper contact. Unless they're well matched, you're putting enough force on them to compress them, or the copper "tripods" a bit in your design.

Isn't that what the springs are for?
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Old 04-28-2011, 06:50 AM CharyouTree is offline  
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Isn't that what the springs are for?
Bahaha, that image didn't load the first time around. Never mind.
Old 04-28-2011, 07:47 AM gee is offline  
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Originally Posted by Tex Arcana View Post
If your voltages are the same, your currents are vastly different: P=IV, or I=P/V, meaning at 12v, the halogen is drawing about 4.6 amps, and the LED is drawing about 2.92. Pretty significant difference.

But, yeah: LEDs are the wave. And you'll have halogens/incandescents as well--try running an LED or CFL in an oven, at least 'til they overcome that little detail.

edit: I wonder what it would take to retrofit a standard halogen headlight unit to LED...

u need to design a new reflector/projector setup with a decent cutoff line. I made a thread about this, no one seemed to give a shit.
http://www.genmay.com/showthread.php?t=835113&page=2
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Old 04-28-2011, 11:42 AM pepperochini is offline  
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tex Arcana View Post
If your voltages are the same, your currents are vastly different: P=IV, or I=P/V, meaning at 12v, the halogen is drawing about 4.6 amps, and the LED is drawing about 2.92. Pretty significant difference.

But, yeah: LEDs are the wave. And you'll have halogens/incandescents as well--try running an LED or CFL in an oven, at least 'til they overcome that little detail.

edit: I wonder what it would take to retrofit a standard halogen headlight unit to LED...

The led itself will do about 9A at bout 3.6v. The driver Im using will draw about 4.5a at 8v and send the led a constant 9 or so Amps.

light output per watt of n led is far far greater then a halogen.

The biggest issue with car led lighting is making a filter for the dirty dc power a car alternator/battery produces. Even though the voltage is normally 11-14.8v you can have dips down to 5v and pikes up to 100v. This can fry an unprotected led instantly. Pretty much you need a bank of different size capacitors and some zerner diodes.
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Old 04-28-2011, 04:17 PM Selfsucker is offline  
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Old 04-29-2011, 03:15 PM ZMan is offline  
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Tex Arcana
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pepperochini View Post
u need to design a new reflector/projector setup with a decent cutoff line. I made a thread about this, no one seemed to give a shit.
http://www.genmay.com/showthread.php?t=835113&page=2

I posted, the mo lies pic you liked!

You kinda gave up on the thead there, areg...
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Old 04-29-2011, 07:31 PM Tex Arcana is offline  
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Tex Arcana
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Quote:
Originally Posted by shmoblar View Post
The led itself will do about 9A at bout 3.6v. The driver Im using will draw about 4.5a at 8v and send the led a constant 9 or so Amps.

light output per watt of n led is far far greater then a halogen.

The biggest issue with car led lighting is making a filter for the dirty dc power a car alternator/battery produces. Even though the voltage is normally 11-14.8v you can have dips down to 5v and pikes up to 100v. This can fry an unprotected led instantly. Pretty much you need a bank of different size capacitors and some zerner diodes.

so how do other LEDs in cars survive, especially the retrofit ones?

Make this shit happen, tastic one... I wanna do this,,
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Old 04-29-2011, 07:32 PM Tex Arcana is offline  
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Quote:
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so how do other LEDs in cars survive, especially the retrofit ones?

Make this shit happen, tastic one... I wanna do this,,

They are shitty leds with a ton of internal resistance. Hit a crap led with a 100v spike and it may let through an amp of current maybe less. Hit a powerful led and you maybe putting 50amps through it. Itll act like a short. This is the voltage vs current for this led. 9amp is the manufacturers suggested max (can be up to 12ish with proper cooling). A giant spike will simply burn it up.



With a proper filter before a constant current driver, there would be no problem.
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Old 04-30-2011, 07:43 AM Selfsucker is offline  
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pepperochini
 
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They are shitty leds with a ton of internal resistance. Hit a crap led with a 100v spike and it may let through an amp of current maybe less. Hit a powerful led and you maybe putting 50amps through it. Itll act like a short. This is the voltage vs current for this led. 9amp is the manufacturers suggested max (can be up to 12ish with proper cooling). A giant spike will simply burn it up.



With a proper filter before a constant current driver, there would be no problem.

They have all types of led drivers/regulators for this purpose, it should be the least of worries. Designing an effective projector/reflector had to be the biggest obstacle.
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Old 04-30-2011, 05:22 PM pepperochini is offline  
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I posted, the mo lies pic you liked!

You kinda gave up on the thead there, areg...

my life is in a whirlwind right now. I'll get to it eventually.
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Old 04-30-2011, 05:28 PM pepperochini is offline  
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how much do you want to sell it for and how can I mount this on my ar15
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Old 05-01-2011, 10:18 PM Black Box is offline  
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[H]ard|On
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How sure are you about the 100v spikes?

I have a hard time believing that. It would destroy your ECu and a number of other things like guages, lights etc. If your car drops to 5v it will stall, plain and simple. If you ever had an alt die on a car with a volt guage you will know you can't really drive it under 10.5v - it will keep dying.


So I'd love to see where you read this about a car's charging system or what accounts for such huge spikes in voltage. I have never seen this in my life despite having multiple cars with digital volt readouts.

Anyway eventually cars will use LEDs but right now HIDs are amazing and only use like 35w a piece. No point in fixing what isn't broke, but arguably an LED can last longer and will not require a ballast.
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Old 05-03-2011, 04:00 PM [H]ard|On is offline  
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Selfsucker
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Quote:
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How sure are you about the 100v spikes?

I have a hard time believing that. It would destroy your ECu and a number of other things like guages, lights etc. If your car drops to 5v it will stall, plain and simple. If you ever had an alt die on a car with a volt guage you will know you can't really drive it under 10.5v - it will keep dying.


So I'd love to see where you read this about a car's charging system or what accounts for such huge spikes in voltage. I have never seen this in my life despite having multiple cars with digital volt readouts.

Anyway eventually cars will use LEDs but right now HIDs are amazing and only use like 35w a piece. No point in fixing what isn't broke, but arguably an LED can last longer and will not require a ballast.

This is stuff i got from the people at candlepowerforums. The spikes and drops are all fractions of a second long. You would need an oscilloscope to see these kinds of things; no normal voltmeter has that sort of refresh rate.
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Old 05-03-2011, 06:45 PM Selfsucker is offline  
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