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GhEttOrAiD
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Quote:
Originally Posted by grjr View Post
wtf is that shit

email from my complainey neighbor.
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Old 10-04-2013, 08:24 PM GhEttOrAiD is offline  
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GhEttOrAiD View Post
email from my complainey neighbor.

should leave some antifreeze laying around for milo to drink, problem solved
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Old 10-04-2013, 09:32 PM grjr is offline  
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GhEttOrAiD
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<edit>

ST205 ECU... Means once I fix my "54" CEL I get more boost...

It's had the CEL's on this entire GD time...If I hadn't pulled em today I would never have even known...
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Last edited by GhEttOrAiD; 10-08-2013 at 10:23 PM..
Old 10-08-2013, 10:03 PM GhEttOrAiD is offline  
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#318  

GhEttOrAiD
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engine fire inc

i am sooo confuzzled

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Old 10-09-2013, 01:36 AM GhEttOrAiD is offline  
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GhEttOrAiD View Post
engine fire inc

i am sooo confuzzled


how did you not know there was CEL on?

maybe if you further explained what exactly the problem is I could help you figure it out
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Old 10-09-2013, 02:07 AM grjr is offline  
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GhEttOrAiD
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Engine is a 96 JDM 3SGTE

ECU is from an ST205 Celica AllTrac

ECU expects a signal from a sensor in the A2W intercooler which I do not possess indicating that the fluid level is sufficient. I am not certain, but I do not believe I have the ST205 harness (though it looks like the US NA harness is intact and "pushed aside.")

The fix, according to a couple of different boards is viewable at the following links:

http://www.gt4dc.co.uk/info/howto/20...ic_code_54.htm

HOWEVER. Because I don't have an AllTrac, or an AllTrac harness, I need to follow this simpler diagram and connect it directly to the wires coming out of my ECU.



http://www.mrtwo.net/mr2modproject/g...-coyotemr2.jpg

There's a tiny bit of information about it on MR2OC,

http://www.mr2oc.com/showthread.php?...t=54+cel+st205

the thread I created tonight is one of three about this particular CEL, and I haven't gotten any responses since posting that diagram I made above..
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Old 10-09-2013, 02:13 AM GhEttOrAiD is offline  
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lollersk8s
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You are so fucked
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Old 10-09-2013, 02:32 AM lollersk8s is offline  
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#322  

RazorWind
 
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It looks like the guy posted what you have to do in the MR2OC thread.

1. Order the charge cooler relay for an ST205. I'd talk to the folks at Lithia Toyota about this if it's a J-Spec part. They actually had an MR2 guy on their staff until relatively recently.

2. Wire up the circuit as shown in the diagram. I'd use a protoboard, as opposed to just wires, and enclose it it in a small project box.

3. Get you a wiring diagram for the particular year and model your wiring harness is from, and use that to figure out which wires provide power and ground for the ECU. Connect your +12V and GND leads to those.

The alternative, and I'd actually seriously consider doing this, is to install the proper ST205 air-to-water intercooler system. I expect it's not a cheap proposition, but I'd also expect that there's a reason they used it, as opposed to the air-to-air one on the MR2.
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Old 10-09-2013, 07:32 AM RazorWind is offline  
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So lets get this straight -
Leaky BPV
No speedometer
Original engine harness still in engine bay, presumably still at least partially connected, potentially causing issues
New harness only partially connected, definitely causing issues

When you purchased this car, you should have paid for a non-running car. I don't see this car ever being "right." When you swap an engine, you don't fucking afro-engineer it in there and half-ass it, you strip the whole goddamn car of everything, and re-wire it down to the dome light unless you're staying in the same engine family which wouldn't require that sort of thing. Believe it or not, it takes less time to pull the interior and do that than it does to chase down a million gremlins, which is probably why that car has been passing hands. To the uninformed, it looks like a decent ride with some dings, but in reality, it's a rat's nest. You're probably going to take this post as an insult, but I am just being honest about what I really think, and am not trolling or being a dick just to be a dick, which I do like to do here. I honestly think you should give up now on the idea of this thing being awesome, and just make it run as good as you can, and get your money back out of it.

Also, not sure if you are aware or not, but the diagram you drew and the one you posted that you're supposed to have, are electrically the same.
Old 10-09-2013, 09:06 AM gribly is offline  
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gribly View Post
So lets get this straight -
Leaky BPV
No speedometer
Original engine harness still in engine bay, presumably still at least partially connected, potentially causing issues
New harness only partially connected, definitely causing issues

When you purchased this car, you should have paid for a non-running car. I don't see this car ever being "right." When you swap an engine, you don't fucking afro-engineer it in there and half-ass it, you strip the whole goddamn car of everything, and re-wire it down to the dome light unless you're staying in the same engine family which wouldn't require that sort of thing. Believe it or not, it takes less time to pull the interior and do that than it does to chase down a million gremlins, which is probably why that car has been passing hands. To the uninformed, it looks like a decent ride with some dings, but in reality, it's a rat's nest. You're probably going to take this post as an insult, but I am just being honest about what I really think, and am not trolling or being a dick just to be a dick, which I do like to do here. I honestly think you should give up now on the idea of this thing being awesome, and just make it run as good as you can, and get your money back out of it.

Also, not sure if you are aware or not, but the diagram you drew and the one you posted that you're supposed to have, are electrically the same.
To be fair, hindsight is 20/20. Any of us could have told him this, but he's stuck with it now. I sort of agree that he's got a bigger project on his hands than his level of competence equips him to handle, but I don't think it's an intractable problem. It's just a problem that will require more than 10 minutes with basic hand tools to fix, and this car has not been fortunate enough to find an owner willing to put in that kind of effort yet.

I expect that a qualified shop that works on 3S-GTEs regularly could work out the issues with this car pretty easily by just removing the wiring harnesses and splicing them properly. I think it's possible to do this with the engine itself still in the vehicle. The cost for the splice work usually seems to be in the $200 range. Removal and installation being extra, obviously.

Edit: The two diagrams are actually not quite the same. You'll notice that he left out the second +12V connection on the relay in his, which leads me to believe that he may not fully understand why the relay has four connections.
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Old 10-09-2013, 09:39 AM RazorWind is offline  
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#325  

gribly
 
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Yeah, but some relays of that type only have 3 connections and one of those may have been used since 85 and 87 on the second diagram are electrically the same anyways, so it wouldn't make a difference. In my electrical classes we used them both in the same places unless there was a different power supply required for the device controlled by the contact side of the relay.
Old 10-09-2013, 09:57 AM gribly is offline  
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RazorWind
 
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Originally Posted by gribly View Post
Yeah, but some relays of that type only have 3 connections and one of those may have been used since 85 and 87 on the second diagram are electrically the same anyways, so it wouldn't make a difference. In my electrical classes we used them both in the same places unless there was a different power supply required for the device controlled by the contact side of the relay.

There's a photo in one of the links he posted that shows a relay that appears to have four terminals.
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Old 10-09-2013, 10:05 AM RazorWind is offline  
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#327  

GhEttOrAiD
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Problem will be solved on payday. Just have to swap in a proper Gen 3 MR2 ecu which, apparently do not ONLY go for ridiculous 4-figure eBay pricing.

$170 and I'll be up to full power, no limp-mode CEL.
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Old 10-09-2013, 11:29 AM GhEttOrAiD is offline  
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#328  

GhEttOrAiD
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gribly View Post
So lets get this straight -
Leaky BPV
No speedometer
Original engine harness still in engine bay, presumably still at least partially connected, potentially causing issues
New harness only partially connected, definitely causing issues

When you purchased this car, you should have paid for a non-running car. I don't see this car ever being "right." When you swap an engine, you don't fucking afro-engineer it in there and half-ass it, you strip the whole goddamn car of everything, and re-wire it down to the dome light unless you're staying in the same engine family which wouldn't require that sort of thing. Believe it or not, it takes less time to pull the interior and do that than it does to chase down a million gremlins, which is probably why that car has been passing hands. To the uninformed, it looks like a decent ride with some dings, but in reality, it's a rat's nest. You're probably going to take this post as an insult, but I am just being honest about what I really think, and am not trolling or being a dick just to be a dick, which I do like to do here. I honestly think you should give up now on the idea of this thing being awesome, and just make it run as good as you can, and get your money back out of it.

Also, not sure if you are aware or not, but the diagram you drew and the one you posted that you're supposed to have, are electrically the same.

All of these problems are/were easily resolv(able/ed)... I assure you I knew I was getting a project car/fixer-upper when I went in. It is now and will always be superior to an EK/EG/EP/whatever the fuck wrong wheel drive econo shitbox you'd have me driving.

I'm not even going to bother to read your wall of negativity, it does nobody any good and you always post the same . You probably even copypasta'ed it from my last thread. And the one before that.

If you're not going to contribute anything positive, you should really just fuck off. Ya it's fun to be an internet bully but it's not healthy or productive at all.

The wiring diagram was supposed to be identical, I was matching the original diagram's slightly confusing crap at the bottom to the ACTUAL representation of the wiring harness I have in my car now, to make it easier to understand when I actually perform the mod.

But given that an ECU is so inexpensive, I'm just going to do it the right way and get myself the correct ECU.
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Old 10-09-2013, 11:36 AM GhEttOrAiD is offline  
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#329  

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Quote:
Originally Posted by grjr View Post
how did you not know there was CEL on?

maybe if you further explained what exactly the problem is I could help you figure it out

I knew there was a CEL, I just ignored it because the P/O said it was related to the lack of a speed sensor. (which was at least partially true, my first CEL was related to a missing speed sensor) but the second code was completely unexpected.

But, no worries. Resolving this in what I think is a Genmay-approved way.

Unless I'm supposed to only buy a NOS ECU for $4,000 directly from Toyota and have it air dropped to my doorstep by the Concorde.
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Old 10-09-2013, 11:41 AM GhEttOrAiD is offline  
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