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RazorWind
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gribly View Post
I'm still betting vacuum leak that goes away when the motor warms up.

Toyotas of this vintage usually have several "vacuum switching valves" that open and close in part based on the coolant temperature. Some (the charcoal canister one, in particular) aren't even electronic - they just open or close when the coolant temp gets above or below a certain level.

One of those could easily be disconnected from its hose, causing all of this hand wringing. Less than 30 seconds of effort required to fix it.
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Old 03-20-2014, 10:26 AM RazorWind is offline  
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GhEttOrAiD
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RazorWind View Post
Toyotas of this vintage usually have several "vacuum switching valves" that open and close in part based on the coolant temperature. Some (the charcoal canister one, in particular) aren't even electronic - they just open or close when the coolant temp gets above or below a certain level.

One of those could easily be disconnected from its hose, causing all of this hand wringing. Less than 30 seconds of effort required to fix it.

those have all been cleaned up

how many times can I say it

the vacuum lines have been cleaned up

he pulled what he said was a "loopback" of pointless vac line and that was causing my high idle
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Old 03-20-2014, 11:08 AM GhEttOrAiD is offline  
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That's why I am saying to take a look. Since he changed it around, he may have made a mistake.
Old 03-20-2014, 11:42 AM gribly is offline  
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GhEttOrAiD
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idk I don't hear any leaks

I will say this... Yesterday (and on other days probably) at one light, the car would idle perfectly at 750-800, rock solid smooth idle. Light would go green, I'd proceed to the next red light. 450-500RPM, close to dying. Little revving, back to 800rpm. It's ever-changing.

Then the other interesting thing... At the same point in my commute every day.. A long sustained straight, out of boost, 35mph probably 2500rpm sustained. Then I let off and brake. RPM's gradually decline lower and lower.. If I didn't dab the throttle the motor would shut off
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Old 03-20-2014, 11:50 AM GhEttOrAiD is offline  
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RazorWind
 
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Originally Posted by gribly View Post
That's why I am saying to take a look. Since he changed it around, he may have made a mistake.

THIS.

Your "mechanic" installed a spark plug WITH ZERO GAP, apparently gave the car back to you running improperly when he was supposed to fix it, and apparently recommended an engine swap (that he wanted you to pay him beaucoup bucks to do?) without backing up his recommendation with any obvious diagnostic process.

Nothing this person did should just be assumed to be correct at this point. I'm not saying he's for sure screwing you; just that he's clearly not perfect, and may have made some other minor mistake that could be corrected with 15 minutes of poking around and 30 seconds of fiddling with hoses.

Edit: You won't necessarily hear a vacuum leak. The engine is noisy while it's idling, especially with an open exhaust like you have on there - it can drown out an awful lot of noises. Did you try the Eric The Car Guy vacuum leak hunting method?
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Old 03-20-2014, 11:57 AM RazorWind is offline  
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RazorWind View Post
THIS.

Your "mechanic" installed a spark plug WITH ZERO GAP, apparently gave the car back to you running improperly when he was supposed to fix it, and apparently recommended an engine swap (that he wanted you to pay him beaucoup bucks to do?) without backing up his recommendation with any obvious diagnostic process.

Nothing this person did should just be assumed to be correct at this point. I'm not saying he's for sure screwing you; just that he's clearly not perfect, and may have made some other minor mistake that could be corrected with 15 minutes of poking around and 30 seconds of fiddling with hoses.

I'm sorry I can't get pissed off at this guy the way you are, and I understand it, on paper this situation sounds totally fucked but by all other indications he IS competent, so this very likely a simple mistake... We all make em.

I'll take pictures of my vac lines you can tell me if you see anything wrong... I don't hear any leaks... The most significant change he made was eliminating this "loopback" of pointless vac lines that were unnecessarily long and not actually doing anything important. He actually thinks that this tangle of hoses might have been keeping my idle artificially high
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Old 03-20-2014, 11:59 AM GhEttOrAiD is offline  
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GhEttOrAiD View Post
idk I don't hear any leaks

I will say this... Yesterday (and on other days probably) at one light, the car would idle perfectly at 750-800, rock solid smooth idle. Light would go green, I'd proceed to the next red light. 450-500RPM, close to dying. Little revving, back to 800rpm. It's ever-changing.

Then the other interesting thing... At the same point in my commute every day.. A long sustained straight, out of boost, 35mph probably 2500rpm sustained. Then I let off and brake. RPM's gradually decline lower and lower.. If I didn't dab the throttle the motor would shut off

have you checked your IACV? I'd at least squirt some carb cleaner in there.
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Old 03-20-2014, 12:08 PM pyramid is offline  
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have you checked your IACV? I'd at least squirt some carb cleaner in there.

I used TB cleaner back when I did my valve cover gaskets
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Old 03-20-2014, 12:10 PM GhEttOrAiD is offline  
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RazorWind
 
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You mentioned once that your check engine light is always on.

Is it actually wired up correctly? Like, can you bridge the diag terminals at the connector in the engine bay and actually check the codes to see what it's upset about?

I'm suggesting this because while there may be some code it throws in your car because of missing and irrelevant equipment, it may also be reporting something useful that you don't know about, because the light was on already.
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You mentioned once that your check engine light is always on.

Is it actually wired up correctly? Like, can you bridge the diag terminals at the connector in the engine bay and actually check the codes to see what it's upset about?

I'm suggesting this because while there may be some code it throws in your car because of missing and irrelevant equipment, it may also be reporting something useful that you don't know about, because the light was on already.

Yeah I know how to pull codes, I've had to do it more than once.

the CEL was on constantly only because at the time I took that video I was using the Celica ST205 ECU (the ecu the car came with) rather than my proper Gen 3 JDM MR2 computer which I normally run now. I wanted to experiment by using it instead, it made no difference. That constant CEL is related to the obvious lack of a W2A intercooler pump.

The only time I'll get a CEL these days if I'm on the freeway for extended periods, its the one pertaining to "no speedo signal"
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Old 03-20-2014, 01:16 PM GhEttOrAiD is offline  
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this will probably resolve the rough idle/dying thing

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Old 03-20-2014, 02:44 PM GhEttOrAiD is offline  
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RazorWind
 
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Adjusting the idle speed alone won't fix this. The problem could be a sticking IACV, but I doubt it. That's not a particularly common problem.

Do remove the valve and clean it thoroughly, though. Carb cleaner down the port in the TB isn't really good enough. Best to actually tear it down as well as you can and clean it. I sort of doubt this is your problem, but it will help to rule it out, just in case.

THEN reinstall it and set the idle speed with the screw.
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Old 03-20-2014, 02:55 PM RazorWind is offline  
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GhEttOrAiD
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Yeah i actually cleaned it back when I did my vc gasket, i could do a more thorough job though i mainly focused on the throttle plate
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Old 03-20-2014, 03:17 PM GhEttOrAiD is offline  
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Originally Posted by GhEttOrAiD View Post
I'm sorry I can't get pissed off at this guy the way you are, and I understand it, on paper this situation sounds totally fucked but by all other indications he IS competent, so this very likely a simple mistake... We all make em.

I'll take pictures of my vac lines you can tell me if you see anything wrong... I don't hear any leaks... The most significant change he made was eliminating this "loopback" of pointless vac lines that were unnecessarily long and not actually doing anything important. He actually thinks that this tangle of hoses might have been keeping my idle artificially high

Look, if he eliminated a high idle problem by culling a bunch of vacuum lines, he fixed at least one leak already. If the "loopback" was air-tight to begin with, then the idle wouldn't have been affected at all.

You've got lines to the carbon canister, you've got a line to a boost sensor, you've got a line to a wastegate, you've got a line to the PCV. Give them a onceover with brake cleaner on a cold start and see if that's what's fucking you up.
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Old 03-20-2014, 03:18 PM Jehannum is offline  
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Also don't forget the brake booster.
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