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jarhed13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mrselfdestruct View Post
This may be a retarded idea but in a manual car couldn't you put the car in gear with the handbrake on and just undo the bolt it with a big breaker bar?

Depends on the torque required to break the bolt loose I guess. If it's more torque than the clutch is rated for, won't the engine start turning again? (honest question!)
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Old 08-11-2010, 09:50 PM jarhed13 is offline  
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wwilliam54
 
Quote:
Originally Posted by mrselfdestruct View Post
This may be a retarded idea but in a manual car couldn't you put the car in gear with the handbrake on and just undo the bolt it with a big breaker bar?

FWD
i.e. can't get to the bolt with teh wheels on the ground.
putting it in fifth and having someone hold the brakes doesnt work either...
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Old 08-11-2010, 11:13 PM wwilliam54 is offline  
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ColdFusion21
 
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Originally Posted by jarhed13 View Post
Depends on the torque required to break the bolt loose I guess. If it's more torque than the clutch is rated for, won't the engine start turning again? (honest question!)

Ya, this. I've spun clutches before. Also, dual mass flywheel BS on BMW's (and other cars) makes it awkward, the flywheel takes up some torque so its like tightening a spring, if you don't rotate the engine over enough to break it lose it just spins back to where it was.
Old 08-11-2010, 11:29 PM ColdFusion21 is offline  
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#48  

mrselfdestruct
 
So I guess undoing the bolt with the car in gear only works if you bought a RWD, manual car that requires a clutch capable of handling a decent amount of torque? If so then it seems like the real problem is you appear to have accidentally purchased a girls car.
Old 08-12-2010, 06:03 PM mrselfdestruct is offline  
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mrselfdestruct View Post
So I guess undoing the bolt with the car in gear only works if you bought a RWD, manual car that requires a clutch capable of handling a decent amount of torque? If so then it seems like the real problem is you appear to have accidentally purchased a girls car.

A "man's" car would have an even more stubborn bolt.

That rope trick actually sounds very logical, putting the stress on the components that are engineered to handle them (rod, piston, head) without overly stressing other components.
Old 08-13-2010, 02:01 AM Fiah is offline  
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#50  

d114
 
does the engine spin in the direction such that you can put a breaker bar on there and crank the car over?

I'd probably do the rope trick before I do the crank or sticking the car in gear and rocking it trick.
Old 08-13-2010, 03:06 AM d114 is offline  
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#51  

dbu8554
 
rope trick works. also i am hostile because someone has to replace range right?
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Old 08-13-2010, 04:24 AM dbu8554 is offline  
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grjr
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wwilliam54 View Post
FWD
i.e. can't get to the bolt with teh wheels on the ground.
putting it in fifth and having someone hold the brakes doesnt work either...

you should be able to with the wheel clocked all the way to the left and some long 1/2" drive extensions. What gets me is that these crank bolts are only ever suppose to be torqued up to 150 lbft max (depending on specific motor) but people with their impacts think that it's suppose to be used to tighten any big bolt on the car. The first time breaking one of these bolts loose can be a bitch depending on who worked on the car before but if it is properly torqued it really isn't that bad. What works well is the 1/2" drive breaker bar from harbor freight which if you buy on sale you can get for $12. That bitch will bend as you try to break a crank bolt loose but it will break it loose. Your case is a bit more difficult since it doesn't have the provisions for a crank pulley holder .
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Old 08-13-2010, 08:43 AM grjr is offline  
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Jehannum
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by grjr View Post
you should be able to with the wheel clocked all the way to the left and some long 1/2" drive extensions. What gets me is that these crank bolts are only ever suppose to be torqued up to 150 lbft max (depending on specific motor) but people with their impacts think that it's suppose to be used to tighten any big bolt on the car. The first time breaking one of these bolts loose can be a bitch depending on who worked on the car before but if it is properly torqued it really isn't that bad. What works well is the 1/2" drive breaker bar from harbor freight which if you buy on sale you can get for $12. That bitch will bend as you try to break a crank bolt loose but it will break it loose. Your case is a bit more difficult since it doesn't have the provisions for a crank pulley holder .

They're hard to get off because you're supposed to use threadlocker on them.
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Old 08-13-2010, 08:47 AM Jehannum is offline  
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#54  

wwilliam54
 
Quote:
Originally Posted by grjr View Post
you should be able to with the wheel clocked all the way to the left and some long 1/2" drive extensions. What gets me is that these crank bolts are only ever suppose to be torqued up to 150 lbft max (depending on specific motor) but people with their impacts think that it's suppose to be used to tighten any big bolt on the car. The first time breaking one of these bolts loose can be a bitch depending on who worked on the car before but if it is properly torqued it really isn't that bad. What works well is the 1/2" drive breaker bar from harbor freight which if you buy on sale you can get for $12. That bitch will bend as you try to break a crank bolt loose but it will break it loose. Your case is a bit more difficult since it doesn't have the provisions for a crank pulley holder .

Honda's turn backwards, tightening the bolt over time
after 50k miles, its get 500+ft/lbs
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Old 08-13-2010, 09:14 AM wwilliam54 is offline  
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#55  

ColdFusion21
 
bmw wants something like 320 ft/lbs on some of the crank bolts. Try doing that with the car in gear or any of that other BS.
Old 08-13-2010, 03:21 PM ColdFusion21 is offline  
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#56  

ritalinjoe
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wwilliam54 View Post
Honda's turn backwards, tightening the bolt over time
after 50k miles, its get 500+ft/lbs

Same with the Cobra. We guessed that bolt was well over 800 ft/lbs. We took it to a friends shop and broke a 3/4" Snap-on breaker bar and 4 impact sockets. Thank god they got them replaced for free cause I would have felt terrible if my friend would have had to pony up for around $450 worth of tools.

It was fucking insane.
Old 08-13-2010, 05:09 PM ritalinjoe is offline  
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#57  

ColdFusion21
 
Ya, that sounds nuts. I cant imagine breaking any 3/4" tools.'
Old 08-13-2010, 06:44 PM ColdFusion21 is offline  
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#58  

gribly
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Foxcow View Post
I appreciate advice from the more experienced. When considering a course of action, obviously the advice of a person with considerable experience (and the credentials to back it up) will weigh more heavily than some guy on the internet in which I don't know. I know for a fact that there is far less chance of something going wrong if I follow a recommended procedure rather than something unorthodox.

The reason I broke my pulley is because I followed popular advice of people that supposedly knew more than I.


Following advice on the internet takes a considerable amount of common sense and some knowledge of what you are doing to begin with.

Anyways, the rope trick works and is an old tried and true method. Jamming a screwdriver between the frame and flywheel teeth is another tried and true method, and my favorite - especially for removing flywheels. I've never heard of chaining the main pulley down though.
Old 08-13-2010, 07:47 PM gribly is offline  
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