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Lurker
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I figured I would do something to make my commutes a little more tolerable. Swapping the speakers would be quick, easy and cheap enough where I wouldnt feel bad letting them go with the car.

I may just drive it stock but HardOn's suggestion sounds tempting because its in line with my original assumptions.

P.s. dont hate, appreciate.
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Last edited by Lurker; 10-02-2011 at 10:41 AM..
Old 10-02-2011, 09:56 AM Lurker is offline  
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Quote:
Originally Posted by [H]ard|On View Post

Now onto the actual speakers - your fronts are oval? If you want better sound get components, period. Put the tweeters in the sail panels. make sure they have real crossovers. As long as the HU has enough WPC and operates at the same resistance as the speakers you are fine. Unless you get very beefy speakers you can indeed skip the amp, or use whataver the factory one is.


Speakers are your priority; round ebats oval every time due to cone strength - less distortion at all volume levels, as well as less cone mass for the same stiffness since round is stronger. Highs are very directional so this is why you need separate tweeters, on axis, with line of sight to your ears. Mids can live happily in the door panels, as long as it isn't too far away from the tweeter. Too far away would be half the wavelength at the crossover point, but ignore that and just go for it. I promise it will work.

Hmm, the more you know. Always thought the more speaker area the better.
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Old 10-02-2011, 10:15 AM Lurker is offline  
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duraiden
 
Yeah, normally I'd suggest getting your deck, amps, speakers, sound deadening, kick panels, etc out of the way first and get it as close to where you want as possible before EQ, however the OP said he didn't want to change the deck and presumably he didn't want to change his speaker locations either. Given those criteria, I still think an EQ and an amp would do more than a new set of speakers.

Either way, I do recommend listening to them with the tone controls completely flat for a day or two before you start tweaking (unless you have time for an extended listening session when you put them in). It's funny how something can sound awful at first until you get used to it.
Old 10-02-2011, 12:47 PM duraiden is offline  
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Jehannum
 
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Originally Posted by Lurker View Post
I figured I would do something to make my commutes a little more tolerable. Swapping the speakers would be quick, easy and cheap enough where I wouldnt feel bad letting them go with the car.

I may just drive it stock but HardOn's suggestion sounds tempting because its in line with my original assumptions.

P.s. dont hate, appreciate.

Is your commute really that intolerable, on account of the speakers holding back the performance of the FM radio?
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Old 10-02-2011, 12:57 PM Jehannum is offline  
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Don't assume that a stock head unit is a piece of shit, unless you're upgrading the stereo in a 1993 Ford Escort. Pretty much every head unit is built with the same parts anyway - there's only a few companies that make the DAC and semiconductor bits used in car head units, and they pretty much all perform the same.

And if it's a decent factory setup, it's probably already pre-EQed for the response of your factory speakers and the car interior, and replacing it with aftermarket could very well sound worse.

I replaced the double-DIN Monsoon head in my GTI with an aftermarket JVC mounted next to my Empeg. It actually took a fair bit of time working on a parametric EQ on the Empeg to end up with something that sounded as good as the stock stereo!
Old 10-02-2011, 04:34 PM gee is offline  
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Is your commute really that intolerable, on account of the speakers holding back the performance of the FM radio?

Obviously not but it would be nice to have good tunes while sitting in traffic.
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Old 10-02-2011, 07:31 PM Lurker is offline  
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#21  

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I should dig up what I had in my Mazda3. It sounded phenomenal.

Off the top of my head

Pioneer 6.5" speakers in the front doors

Infinity Reference 6.5" in the rear doors

JL Audio 10W3 subs powered by a JL 500/5 amp... $15 worth of sound deadening for the rear plate frame and some in the front doors.

This was in an '06 Maz3 GT sedan.
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Old 10-02-2011, 07:36 PM theWITNESS is offline  
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[H]ard|On
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Pioneer makes good stuff.

As always skip the rear unless you actually need to entertain rear passengers. (You sit in the front and stereo is a two way system - so short of surround sound movies there is no actual benefit, only negatives such as little or no imaging and destructive interference; get some good components, a small sub and fade to front.)
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Old 10-03-2011, 01:36 AM [H]ard|On is offline  
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[H]ard|On
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Lurker View Post
Hmm, the more you know. Always thought the more speaker area the better.

More speaker area IS better. More area (sD) requires less distance for the cone to travel (xMax). Roughly speaking a 2 inch "computer" speaker would have to travel something like two feet instantly to create a 20 hz wave - impossible in other words; A 12" driver only needs to move the cone a few mm which allows more precision. This is where nerdy terms like transient response come in.

Get 1" tweeters over 3/4" for example - all drivers follow these rules: big or small. This is another reason why coaxial speakers don't cut it. They have tiny tweeters and the crossover is usually an afterthought - a capacitor across the tweeter to filter out the lows and prevent physical damage. Nothing for the woofer so it simply limits itself. The problem with this is it's never a smooth rolloff like an actual crossover achieves - it's a jagged mess of response that finally diminishes to nothing and interferes with the tweeter the entire way there.

Coaxials do have a benefit - the tweeter is in perfect phase with the woofer so what they play hits you at the same time. Much like the added area of a 6x9, it is not enough to outweigh the negatives though.
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Last edited by [H]ard|On; 10-03-2011 at 02:08 AM..
Old 10-03-2011, 02:03 AM [H]ard|On is offline  
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Quote:
Originally Posted by [H]ard|On View Post
More speaker area IS better. More area (sD) requires less distance for the cone to travel (xMax). Roughly speaking a 2 inch "computer" speaker would have to travel something like two feet instantly to create a 20 hz wave - impossible in other words; A 12" driver only needs to move the cone a few mm which allows more precision. This is where nerdy terms like transient response come in.
.

I was referring to oval vs round, I didn't know shape resulted in any difference. Just figured ovals were always better because they were bigger.


Quote:
Originally Posted by [H]ard|On View Post
Pioneer makes good stuff.

As always skip the rear unless you actually need to entertain rear passengers. (You sit in the front and stereo is a two way system - so short of surround sound movies there is no actual benefit, only negatives such as little or no imaging and destructive interference; get some good components, a small sub and fade to front.)

I agree. Based on what I have read, I was thinking of getting components for the front, and just some new woofers for the back(ovals for the back?). It also seems my car has tweeters in the doors or maybe just the holes for them. I keep forgetting to listen if there anything come from there or not.


How difficult would it be to wire an amp? Im guessing just extending all speaker wires back to the trunk and then from the trunk back to every door, power from the battery and ignition switch?
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Last edited by Lurker; 10-03-2011 at 06:42 AM..
Old 10-03-2011, 06:23 AM Lurker is offline  
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Quote:
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Pioneer makes good stuff.

No they don't.
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Old 10-03-2011, 08:32 AM theWITNESS is offline  
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#26  

duraiden
 
I've never put a stereo in a 3, but in my WRX it took about 30 minutes to run all the cable I needed for an amp. There's a hole with a grommet in it right in the firewall already.

Heavy cable (8ga or larger if you're not running subwoofers, 4ga or larger if you are) with an in-line fuse (within the first foot or so from the battery) from the positive terminal through the firewall (please don't run this through the doorsill; if you run under the car put it in a conduit or make sure it's fastened well) to your amp location, a remote cable from your deck to the amp location (this one doesn't carry much current so any size wire is fine), and a ground from your amp to any bare metal - the shorter the better.

On speaker cable - I was always told that if you run your battery cable down one side of the car, your interconnects and speaker cable should run down the other side to prevent interference, which means the speaker wire for one of your fronts will probably have to run under your dash somewhere.

If you end up buying something for the front with external crossovers, I'd put them in the back near the amp. Yeah, it's way more speaker wire to run, but putting the crossover in the trunk/hatch/whatever instead of the doors will keep them from getting rusty.

On Pioneer... I like their higher end stuff; wouldn't touch the low-end.
Old 10-03-2011, 09:01 AM duraiden is offline  
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Since we are on the subject of car stereos in a Mazda 3 can someone just UPS Bose an IED already so they stop putting the shittest crap they can in cars.
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Old 10-03-2011, 01:00 PM Thermo1223 is offline  
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Infinity comps for the front, 6x9's for the back

if your going with a sub, do away with the 6x9 and just get a sub b/c the power of your sub will cream your 6x9's. One Alpine Type R should do the trick

(I'm currently using a MB Quart amp with 6x9 infinity Kappas and 4" infinity two-way coaxials in my FJ. This car had the worst stock speaker config I've ever seen. I did not get an equalizer b/c I plan on getting a HU with one built in)



equalizer: a good headunit will have a 7 band digital eq. if you plan to stay stock, get a regular equalizer.
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Old 10-03-2011, 01:29 PM pepperochini is offline  
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Since we are on the subject of car stereos in a Mazda 3 can someone just UPS Bose an IED already so they stop putting the shittest crap they can in cars.

God damn; the 2nd gen 3 has the most horrid stereo known to man. I had two sedans as loaners while my 3 (RIP) was in the shop, and god damn it was close to unbearable.
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Old 10-03-2011, 01:43 PM theWITNESS is offline  
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