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mcovey
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Quote:
Originally Posted by f00ker
Turn it about 45 degrees upward so that the bottom "circle" on the lever is at the top of the sight.
Don't forget to clean it!

I usally soak the metal parts in hot (steaming) water, and wash them with a rag. Scrub the important stuff with gun oil on a toothbrush, clean out the barrel and then I'm done.

Usually after shooting though I just clean the barrel with a few oiled shotgun wipes (they fit) and scrub the inside part where the bullets load into with an oiled up toothbrush. My main reason for soaking it so far has just been removing cosmoline.
Old 08-19-2006, 08:21 AM mcovey is offline  
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mofugger
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You know what....someone should register cleanyourguns.com or some shit like that and make it an informational thread on how to field strip your weaps.
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Old 08-19-2006, 06:11 PM mofugger is offline  
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#77  

f00ker
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mcovey
Don't forget to clean it!

I usally soak the metal parts in hot (steaming) water, and wash them with a rag. Scrub the important stuff with gun oil on a toothbrush, clean out the barrel and then I'm done.

Usually after shooting though I just clean the barrel with a few oiled shotgun wipes (they fit) and scrub the inside part where the bullets load into with an oiled up toothbrush. My main reason for soaking it so far has just been removing cosmoline.


well thats just too bad for you, cosmoline can lick my balls. I cant stand touching my yugo's stock, its loaded with that junk. I did a deep cleaning with rags, tooth brushes, and some of that heavy duty gun cleaner on the gun (minus the damn stock) and put an ATI folder on, but i left the cam in place, so it doesnt fold yet, not enough US made parts yet.
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Old 09-30-2006, 05:31 PM f00ker is offline  
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#78  

MdBlades
 
Take the stock off, And set it in direct sunlight, or get a steam cleaner for the Cosmo.

When i get the FS2000 i shall post pics of a tear down
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Old 09-30-2006, 08:53 PM MdBlades is offline  
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#79  

aqua_scummm
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Field Stipping a Phantom, or most Nelson style guns (same basic principles).

There's a reason these are generally considered the easiest markers to repair/maintain, there's nothing to them.

Step 1: Remove your airsource. Pull the trigger. If you have a check valve, fire 1 or 2 shots after you remove your air source, to be sure your marker is empty of all pressurized air. Remove your barrel. Remove a detent ring if you left it in there.
Barrel and Air Source removed


Step 2: Turn the gun upside down, and unscrew the 2 thumbscrews holding the grip frame to the marker body. If the marker has not been disassembled yet, you may need to use an allen key to loosen up the thumbscrews, as Mike Casady likes to make them tight.

Upside-down Phantom



Close-Up of a thumbscrew



Step 3: The valve will slide out the back of the marker. Remove the pump arm from the bolt (it should just be a rod in a hole). Then 3 other parts will slide out, which were not visibe before. The hammer comes out first, then the mainspring, then the bolt/TPC/velocity adjuster. Nelsons are "backwards", the hammer sits near the back of the marker (which is why it comes out first), and moves further backwards to strike the valve. The hammer carries the sear with it.

Valve seperated from body, pump disconnected. Internal parts are still inside



Hammer/sear on the left, mainspring center, and bolt/velocity adjuster on the right


Step 4:Clean and re-lube everything. I just use marker lube, although people say certain lubes will eat at O-Rings. If they do, it's slow enough not to matter. Just use marker lube, don't be a cheapass.

closeup of the bolt/tpc



That is the bolt. The center screws in to increase the tension on the mainspring, thus the hammer hits the valve harder, opens it more/longer, and the ball gets more velocity. Screw it all the way counter clockwise, then adjust velocity. Do not screw in more than 6 turns, you will unseat the threads, causing unstable velocity and damage to the TPC. Instead use a stronger mainspring, or if applicable, adjust your regulator.

The TPC has a nylon set screw. After you adjust your velocity, tighten it against the threads, but not to the point where you strip the nylon screw. You just need a bit of friction.

The inside part of the bolt, notice the airflow directing holes


If you want, use a .050" allen key to adjust the setscrew in the top center hole of this pic. It will adjust how much force is required to trigger the safety (in either direction).
Old 10-10-2006, 01:34 AM aqua_scummm is offline  
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aqua_scummm
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Step 5: Re-assemble everything the way it was. If you have a phantom, grey ghost, or some other markers, the internals are "anti-kink", which means they wrap around the mainspring to prevent it from bending or kinking. If they are not like this, then just slide them into the marker's tube. If they are, I find it easier to reassemble them first, and slide them in as a group

Anti-kink parts all on the mainspring


As you slide them in, be sure the sear fits in one groove, and the hole in the bolt is visible in the other


Re-insert the pump arm into the bolt. Insert the valve into the back, being sure to feed the powertube through the hammer, mainspring, and into the bolt. The powertube is the long tube sticking out the valve, where the air escapes. We want it to feed directly into the bolt. Attach the gripframe, being sure the pump return spring rests against the outside of it (see pic)

Valve, internals, and body all put back together


Notice how the Pump Return Spring has a washer sitting against the gripframe, giving it something to push against


Screw in the 2 thumbscrews, smaller in front. Just hand tighten them. Drop 1-3 drops of marker lube in your ASA or 12 gram piercer. Dry fire 15 shots or so WITH NO BARREL. if any lube gets in your barrel, your accuracy will be shot to hell, the oil will create a huge amount of spin inside the barrel. Re-attach your barrel, and you're set!




This did not cover disassembling your valve. You should almost never have to do this as long as you drop 1-3 drops of lube in the ASA before every day of play, and dry fire it through the marker. The valve takes care of itself just fine. If you wanted to take it apart, it is about as simple as the rest of the marker. You can take a .22 casing, fill it with wax, and put it inside the valve spring. It should get you about 2-5 more shots off a 12gram.
Old 10-10-2006, 01:34 AM aqua_scummm is offline  
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#81  

click46
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why does no one clearly identify the parts that should be lubed. SIG doesn't really specify, nor do any of the forum HOWTOs I've come across. I lubed mine up well, but fuck if I know if something is getting fucked because I didnt lube it properly :\
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Old 11-19-2006, 02:18 AM click46 is offline  
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#82  

mofugger
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Quote:
Originally Posted by click46 View Post
why does no one clearly identify the parts that should be lubed. SIG doesn't really specify, nor do any of the forum HOWTOs I've come across. I lubed mine up well, but fuck if I know if something is getting fucked because I didnt lube it properly :\

well lube is short for lubricant which is used to reduce friction on moving parts. I suggest lubing places of metal to metal contact
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Old 01-14-2007, 02:22 AM mofugger is offline  
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#83  

WickedAngel
 
Quote:
Originally Posted by click46 View Post
why does no one clearly identify the parts that should be lubed. SIG doesn't really specify, nor do any of the forum HOWTOs I've come across. I lubed mine up well, but fuck if I know if something is getting fucked because I didnt lube it properly :\

Springfield doesn't either I asked myself the same thing when I was reading through my manual.
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Old 03-01-2007, 03:29 AM WickedAngel is offline  
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#84  

Toxicity
 
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Springfield doesn't either I asked myself the same thing when I was reading through my manual.

anything with metal to metal contact...
Old 06-02-2007, 12:13 AM Toxicity is offline  
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#85  

1badmutha
 
that's not how i clean my gun but nobody really asked me
Old 07-05-2007, 12:48 PM 1badmutha is offline  
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#86  

akromix
 
Quote:
Originally Posted by f00ker View Post
Turn it about 45 degrees upward so that the bottom "circle" on the lever is at the top of the sight.



Pull/swing the gas tube up from the back forward, be careful that the piston does not fly out! (Yay it's off now)



Now, flip over the rifle, and make use of the tools to remove the trigger. Push with the punch, on the small button behind the trigger guard, It takes a bit of a push, the trigger will pop out, and you can just pull it right on out.



Remove the magazine, it just pops right out.



Hooray, almost there



Now, turn the rifle over, it's time to remove the stock



Pivot the barrel downward (pivot point is the front end of the stock), Mine is a bitch, and is very snug, it takes a little wrestling/elbow grease to get it out, also I remove the cleaning rod and pull the bayonet out before pivoting the barrel.



Now it's all (not entirely) disassembled.



Put it back together in reverse order, and enjoy


Dude, is that thing caked with cosmoline or are the pics deceiving? If it does in fact have all that cosmoline on the bolt carrier and bolt you might want to get rid of that before you have a ridiculous slam fire.
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Last edited by akromix; 07-20-2007 at 12:58 AM..
Old 07-20-2007, 12:56 AM akromix is offline  
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#87  

akromix
 
Here's field stripping instructions for anyone with a Para-ordnance 1911 without the barrel bushing. (such as my warthog)

Gun is loaded, cocked and locked. First remove the magazine and unload the round in the chamber. Visually/physically inspect the chamber to make sure there is no round loaded.



Release the slide




Use one hand to pull back the slide to the first notch in the slide, and on the other side press the slide lock pin inwards.



Now wiggle it out.



The slide can now be removed from the body.

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Old 07-22-2007, 05:10 PM akromix is offline  
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#88  

akromix
 
Remove the recoil spring



Push out the recoil spring retainer from the slide



Rotate the barrel's pivot flat so it does not interfere with removing the barrel from the slide and remove the barrel.



And now you have completed field stripped a Para-ordnance Warthog .45. Just reverse for assembly.
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Old 07-22-2007, 05:10 PM akromix is offline  
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#89  

DHermit
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can someone do a ruger 10/22
Old 07-22-2007, 05:15 PM DHermit is offline  
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