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Ice
 
Guess the damage game. Accord experts or Double-wishbone suspension come in

So I hit a curb going 30-40 mph. The car is 2008 Accord Sedan. Front left wheel got nicked a bit but I decided to replace it anyway for cosmetic purposes. The car got a realignment. FL Camber is now 0.5 degree (Range -0.8 to 0.5), and FL Caster is now 2.7 (Range 2.7 to 4.2). Right at the limit... The car drives without vibration, but it now pulls to the left on freeway.

What it means is that the Front Left wheel got pushed back maybe half an inch, and that affects the Camber as well. I talked to the alignment tech and he said the Caster cannot be adjusted and that I need to take the car to a frame shop to push the FL wheel forward.

I took the car to a pretty reputable shop and they said the A-arm is damaged, cannot be fixed and needs to be replaced, all without looking at the car. Total cost + labor + alignment = $350. On top of that, it's not guarantee it will fix the problem. If that doesn't work, they will replace cradle, which is in the $700-800 range.

I'm seeking 2nd opinion. What says you [M]? Does that sound reasonable?
Old 01-30-2012, 07:42 PM Ice is offline  
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asa
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my opinion is that you're getting fucked over by everyone

first thing done where i work (Pepboys) is to get the car on the rack, hook up the heads and check out the initial alignment, if we can't fix the alignment (either through the replacement of parts or regular adjustments) then we don't charge for the alignment
we also figure do an inspection to see if we can figure out what the cause of the damage is

might want to go to a dealership and have them inspect it
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Old 01-30-2012, 07:50 PM asa is offline  
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Ice
 
A crude demonstration of how it's hit lol

So it's hit and it's bounced out due to the angle so it's not as bad... but enough to do damage... arrgg..

Old 01-30-2012, 08:29 PM Ice is offline  
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[H]ard|On
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Post pics of it. How tall was the curb?
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Old 01-30-2012, 08:38 PM [H]ard|On is offline  
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asa
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depends on how steep it was and the speed, but to damage an A arm you usually take a huge chunk out of the wheel
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Old 01-30-2012, 08:38 PM asa is offline  
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[H]ard|On
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Agree, but maybe they see a lot of this on accords... something prone to bending more than usual but speed, height of curb and all that is what counts.

Mashing the brakes right as it goes over makes it worse too. ABS helps a little.
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Old 01-30-2012, 08:43 PM [H]ard|On is offline  
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asa
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seriously, pics of the wheel, pics of the undercarriage, etc etc etc
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Old 01-30-2012, 08:44 PM asa is offline  
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Ice
 
Curb is about 3-4" high, standard curb on small street. No braking, the car rolled right over, bounced out, and kept on rolling...

Light damaged on the wheel. It did take a chunk of the rubber of the tire that exposed the steel belt though

Old 01-30-2012, 09:14 PM Ice is offline  
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Yeah you're goign to replace a lot of shit and it's never really going to be the same
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Old 01-30-2012, 09:21 PM Nevermore is offline  
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Ice
 
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Yeah you're goign to replace a lot of shit and it's never really going to be the same

I'm taking it to the dealership and pay them $90 for a real inspection to see what's wrong. At least I'll know exactly what broke and what got bent, instead of "Let's replace this part and pray it works"
Old 01-30-2012, 09:41 PM Ice is offline  
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gribly
 
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I folded a lower control arm and a tie rod on my Miata without scratching a wheel... Slid sideways through some grass and folded the front right suspension in, and broke the bead on both right side tires. Cost me $970 in parts.
Old 01-30-2012, 10:18 PM gribly is offline  
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u467
 
If it's within spec I actually wouldn't worry about it. That said, accords do pull to the side when there's slight camber in the road. Try driving in a straight line on roads with absolutely no camber first.

Failing that, what is the difference in castor from right to left? Your front end guy should have told you that.
Old 01-30-2012, 10:48 PM u467 is offline  
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Ice
 
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If it's within spec I actually wouldn't worry about it. That said, accords do pull to the side when there's slight camber in the road. Try driving in a straight line on roads with absolutely no camber first.

Failing that, what is the difference in castor from right to left? Your front end guy should have told you that.

It's technically still within spec, but riiiiight at the limit

Old 01-30-2012, 11:04 PM Ice is offline  
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u467
 
hmm... on second thought, A-arms failure mode is indicated by buckling. Get it up on a hoist or get under there and inspect for noticeable creases or buckling in the stamped steel arm. I'd even go as far as comparing measurements between left and right.

What kind of machine is this from? I'm curious because most Hondas spec rear toe in and not zero. Also, your cross caster is out of spec which could be the cause of your woes.

edit: your front left camber is out as well, I actually agree with your reputable shop assessment that the control arm is bent.
Old 01-31-2012, 12:17 AM u467 is offline  
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Ice
 
It's the printout from Firestone. I have lifetime alignment there so...

The specs from their machine looks about right

Here's the factory alignment spec from Honda
Old 01-31-2012, 12:32 AM Ice is offline  
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