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mofugger
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As a follow on to the black powder pics....the cylinder and nipples clean up quite nicely if you put them in a pot of HOT soapy water for about 8 min. Gotta dry completely though or it will rust.
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Old 12-03-2004, 11:27 AM mofugger is offline  
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#31  

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OmegaAquinas
 
Quote:
Originally Posted by whatthedil
Minus the selector bit...that is pretty close to a true glock teardown. The only thing missing is the trigger has to be pulled before the slide will move forward on the frame.

That, and the barrel is all one piece. Still, surprisingly accurate re-creation...or maybe Glocks are just that simplified. heh.
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Old 12-03-2004, 04:52 PM OmegaAquinas is offline  
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#32  

n9vmo
 
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Originally Posted by OmegaAquinas
Being as I'm a newbie gun owner, how often will I need to do that? Once a year or so with moderate usage for cleaning?

Detail strip the firearm every 6 months if used on a regular basis or once a year if you have not shot it in a while.


Quote:
Originally Posted by OmegaAquinas
Also, how often to field strip and clean--after each firing session or is once a month a good time frame (again assuming light/moderate use (50-100 rounds/session, 1 session per week)?

If you are just a recreational shooter, clean after every range session. If you are a competition shooter, do not clean till your accuracy starts to slip, this will preclude you from having to re-zero your weapon drastically.
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Old 12-03-2004, 09:25 PM n9vmo is offline  
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#33  

OmegaAquinas
 
Thanks! Useful information indeed.

I've noticed this thread has been a bit lacking in the "...and Clean" part, aside from the first Sig example. I suppose it's pretty basic (use brush and wire brush for barrel) but a listing of good oils/cleansing agents may be a good idea so you know what to get next outing to the gun shop.
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Old 12-04-2004, 03:19 PM OmegaAquinas is offline  
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#34  

whatthedil
 
I use the big bottles of hoppes #9 solvent, so i can fill a pan to submerge the parts in. I also keep a little bottle on hand to dip the brush and patches in.

I use a combination of hoppes gun oil (mostly on the exterior metal) and militec-1 on the internals of the firearms.

You can get a sample of the militec-1 oil and grease that will last for quite some time @ www.militec.com
Old 12-04-2004, 05:05 PM whatthedil is offline  
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OmegaAquinas
 
Sweet, just sent in a request for the stuff, Thanks!
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Old 12-04-2004, 11:09 PM OmegaAquinas is offline  
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#36  

mofugger
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i sent in for some too
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Old 12-07-2004, 03:29 PM mofugger is offline  
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#37  

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This shit looks cool.
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Old 12-08-2004, 12:20 PM RedManThatCould is offline  
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#38  

whatthedil
 
So far the militec oil has worked well. I find less residue around my bolt and gas system in my SKS. Normally the gas system should be dry, but this seems to do the trick without gumming up on me.

What I did was put a light coat on all the parts, then let them bake in the sun on the dashboard of my car. I dont know if that was enough heat or not, but I have shot the gun since and havent had any problems. When I cleaned it, I noticed far less build up on the gas piston...

I found a big bottle of the oil at the local gun show, it was like 7.00, I think it will last me for the rest of my life.
Old 12-08-2004, 02:07 PM whatthedil is offline  
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mofugger
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nice deal on that bottle

Since the SKS is such a popular rifle to customize, I might do a "how to change the stock" pictoral when the folding stock I ordered comes in.
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Old 12-08-2004, 02:21 PM mofugger is offline  
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#40  

Stoney
 
Airsoft 1911 takedown:

1. Mag out:


2. Pull the slide back until the slide release catch lines up with the small notch behind on the slide


3.push the slide release catch through from the otherside


4. slide will run forward, just pull it off the frame


5. pull the recoil spring out and then push the barrel forward and unscrew the outer barrel


6. you can now just pull the inner barrel with hop unit etc out


gas piston can be removed by unscrewing the allen (hex) bolt holding the rear sight on but you dont need to do that for basic cleaning/lubing :)

be great if someone could post pics of a real 1911 takedown, would be cool to see how it compares :)
Old 12-08-2004, 04:34 PM Stoney is offline  
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#41  

mofugger
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now all we need is a paintball takedown guide and this thread is complete
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Old 12-08-2004, 04:41 PM mofugger is offline  
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#42  

mofugger
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And now for the COMPLETE breakdown of the 1851 Colt Navy (good to do from time to time)

All necessary tools (though you can get away with a small (not too small) flathead screwdriver...this is my gunsmith screwdriver set complete with missing peices.


Remove wedge pin retention screw


Use wedge removal tool and simply pull barrel free from frame


Use the nipple wrench to remove the nipples from the cylinder (OMG!!1 Nipples)


Remove this screw to separate the loading lever (aka ramrod if you will) from the barrel


Simply remove these screws


And these


This little piece keeps the cylinder lock in place when it needs to be. The one that comes with the revolver is a piece of shit flat steel clip. Very prone to breaking. Check your local gun store/gun smith for a replacement. Minor bending might be required


Remove these screws to separate the hammer/trigger assembly from the frame


Parts pull right out.


On a side note, the main spring (thick flat steel inside the handle) is a bit of a bitch to hold in place while aligning the trigger guard portion of the frame long enough to get a screw in there, but its nothing too difficult.
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Last edited by MoFuglier; 12-18-2004 at 11:56 AM..
Old 12-18-2004, 11:04 AM mofugger is offline  
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#43  

MdBlades
 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Stoney
Airsoft 1911 takedown:

1. Mag out:


2. Pull the slide back until the slide release catch lines up with the small notch behind on the slide


3.push the slide release catch through from the otherside


4. slide will run forward, just pull it off the frame


5. pull the recoil spring out and then push the barrel forward and unscrew the outer barrel


6. you can now just pull the inner barrel with hop unit etc out


gas piston can be removed by unscrewing the allen (hex) bolt holding the rear sight on but you dont need to do that for basic cleaning/lubing

be great if someone could post pics of a real 1911 takedown, would be cool to see how it compares


Wow, thats pretty accurate to how a real one tears down. When i get my i upload account going, i will post a real 1911 tear down. Except you have to remove the recoil spring plug (Without it flying across the room (DOH)) Then you can pull the slide off. Unless you want the slide to stay as one peice, and not break it down, then you can just pull out the mag catch release, and slide the slide off.

Gimmie time and i can post how to do the M1 garand, and the ar15 rifle.

Last edited by MdBlades; 12-27-2004 at 11:20 AM..
Old 12-27-2004, 11:15 AM MdBlades is offline  
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#44  

mofugger
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When I go on leave in march...I'll prolly have takedown tutorials for:

AR-15/CAR-15 (Same as M-16 & M4)
Baretta 92

Whatever else I can get my hands on from my father's collection
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Old 12-28-2004, 03:19 AM mofugger is offline  
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