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lollersk8s
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How is the cooling sys laid out in the mr2? How hard is it to change the radiator/water pump?
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Old 09-18-2013, 12:18 PM lollersk8s is offline  
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How is the cooling sys laid out in the mr2? How hard is it to change the radiator/water pump?

radiator in front, coolant lines run through the MR2's equivalent of a "transmission tunnel"

it is extremely difficult to refill the system without trapping air bubbles, they pool up in cyl 3 and the motor pops

somebody on SA asked me if the radiator had been re-oriented to take advantage of my hood vents, it has not, and lays down at an angle.
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Old 09-18-2013, 02:21 PM GhEttOrAiD is offline  
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How is the cooling sys laid out in the mr2? How hard is it to change the radiator/water pump?
The radiator and heater core are in the usual locations. There are very long pipes running down the center of the car for each of them, for a total of four pipes. It also has like sixteen coolant hoses of various sizes. Seriously. There are several for the main radiator (six to eight, maybe?) and then several more for the heater, and finally at least two more that provide coolant to the turbocharger. These are routed between the exhaust manifold and the engine block, and are prone to cracking. They're a goddamn nightmare to change, and thus referred to as "the hose from hell" and the "hose from hell on earth" respectively.

Assuming it's already empty, the radiator is very easy to change. It has a couple of brackets that have to be removed, and after that you just break the hoses loose and lift it out. The hardest part of the process is draining the coolant, which is done from not one, not two, not three but FOUR drain ports, two of which are in the middle of the aforementioned coolant pipes, and require the removal of the plastic undertray.

The water pump is driven by the timing belt, as is common with Japanese cars of this vintage, and is thus a pain in the ass to change.

Once you get whatever prompted you to service the cooling system fixed, you then have the joy of filling the system and bleeding the air out. This actually isn't that hard if you're not a total fucktard, but it's not by any means fun. You first put a special hose (usually missing these days) that comes with the car on the vent ports, of which there are two - one on the rad, one on the heater control valve. Usually, the one on the radiator leaks like a sieve when you open it, and makes a huge mess. You then fill the system until the level in the hoses is the same, and level with the coolant neck.

If you open both vents, and fill slowly, you can get about 98% of the air out without fuss. You then run the engine for a couple of minutes, let it sit, and squeeze the hoses until you stop getting bubbles out.

I've done the coolant flush procedure enough times that I'm no longer intimidated, but I still never look forward to it.
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Old 09-18-2013, 07:00 PM RazorWind is offline  
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Old 09-19-2013, 06:34 AM Code: [M]ayhem is offline  
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lollersk8s
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Originally Posted by RazorWind View Post
The radiator and heater core are in the usual locations. There are very long pipes running down the center of the car for each of them, for a total of four pipes. It also has like sixteen coolant hoses of various sizes. Seriously. There are several for the main radiator (six to eight, maybe?) and then several more for the heater, and finally at least two more that provide coolant to the turbocharger. These are routed between the exhaust manifold and the engine block, and are prone to cracking. They're a goddamn nightmare to change, and thus referred to as "the hose from hell" and the "hose from hell on earth" respectively.

Assuming it's already empty, the radiator is very easy to change. It has a couple of brackets that have to be removed, and after that you just break the hoses loose and lift it out. The hardest part of the process is draining the coolant, which is done from not one, not two, not three but FOUR drain ports, two of which are in the middle of the aforementioned coolant pipes, and require the removal of the plastic undertray.

The water pump is driven by the timing belt, as is common with Japanese cars of this vintage, and is thus a pain in the ass to change.

Once you get whatever prompted you to service the cooling system fixed, you then have the joy of filling the system and bleeding the air out. This actually isn't that hard if you're not a total fucktard, but it's not by any means fun. You first put a special hose (usually missing these days) that comes with the car on the vent ports, of which there are two - one on the rad, one on the heater control valve. Usually, the one on the radiator leaks like a sieve when you open it, and makes a huge mess. You then fill the system until the level in the hoses is the same, and level with the coolant neck.

If you open both vents, and fill slowly, you can get about 98% of the air out without fuss. You then run the engine for a couple of minutes, let it sit, and squeeze the hoses until you stop getting bubbles out.

I've done the coolant flush procedure enough times that I'm no longer intimidated, but I still never look forward to it.

God damn. Reminds me of the old VW busses that you had to tilt end to end to get fully bled of air

4 drains? I get upset that i have to drain the block AND the radiator...
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Old 09-19-2013, 12:39 PM lollersk8s is offline  
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God damn. Reminds me of the old VW busses that you had to tilt end to end to get fully bled of air

4 drains? I get upset that i have to drain the block AND the radiator...

It's really not that bad. The worst part about the air bleed procedure is that in thirteen years of MR2 ownership, I never once encountered a radiator bleed valve that didn't leak coolant out around the screw when you'd open it.

This led to a puddle on the floor under it, and made it almost impossible to do the way the manual says, because the level of the coolant in the hose was always going down as a result the leakage at the bleed valve.
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Old 09-19-2013, 01:09 PM RazorWind is offline  
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Must.Buy.ASAfuckingP.

http://www.racerxfabrication.com/pro...block_off.html

Zip tied the vac line between intake and BPV... Shifts are so much more seamless now.
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Old 09-20-2013, 09:12 PM GhEttOrAiD is offline  
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freaking neighbors complaining about the exhaust noise again

absolutely mental the car is quieter than my brothers BMW with rusted through exhaust
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Old 09-20-2013, 11:55 PM GhEttOrAiD is offline  
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It's probably your driving.
Old 09-21-2013, 06:50 AM gribly is offline  
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I think its my squeaky brakes... I did get on it a little bit on the street perpendicular to mine but even then it was not that loud..

The fact is their dog barks at people on foot walking outside their house, the dog barks at my moms explorer, my dads BMW all with stock exhaust...
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Old 09-21-2013, 09:29 AM GhEttOrAiD is offline  
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Originally Posted by GhEttOrAiD View Post
Must.Buy.ASAfuckingP.

http://www.racerxfabrication.com/pro...block_off.html

Zip tied the vac line between intake and BPV... Shifts are so much more seamless now.

Uhh, isn't the compressor bypass like, there for a reason?
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Old 09-21-2013, 10:15 AM RazorWind is offline  
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Why the hell would you ghetto up your car like that? Just run a stock recirc, and fix the issues with the car before you modify it.

Have you even done the normal stuff that car enthusiasts do when they buy a new (used) car? As in, change every fluid in the car including brake fluid? I don't mean to keep ripping on you, but you seem to have the mentality of a teenager that thinks the most important aspect of a car is how many mods it has, regardless of well well it runs or how fast it is.
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Why the hell would you ghetto up your car like that? Just run a stock recirc, and fix the issues with the car before you modify it.

Have you even done the normal stuff that car enthusiasts do when they buy a new (used) car? As in, change every fluid in the car including brake fluid? I don't mean to keep ripping on you, but you seem to have the mentality of a teenager that thinks the most important aspect of a car is how many mods it has, regardless of well well it runs or how fast it is.

The oil is clean and was freshly changed before I bought the car.. The coolant is clean.. The brakes need servicing (and calipers need replacing) so it'll be changed then.

It's not "ghettoing the car up" in fact I'm shocked and astounded that you'd attack me for deleting the BPV completely rather than going my usual route and slapping on an SSQV
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Old 09-21-2013, 11:21 AM GhEttOrAiD is offline  
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Originally Posted by RazorWind View Post
Uhh, isn't the compressor bypass like, there for a reason?

It's simply there to eliminate a noise that would be alarming to an average american car buyer.

There's compressor surge then there's on-throttle compressor surge. Big difference between the two.

It's currently being debated on the MR2OC facebook page, and there are about four or five multi page threads on the boards about it... Majority of people say its fine. An interesting thing one of the participants pointed out is that big diesels dont have bypass valves at all.

The benefit of crippling my BPV (which I've already done) is that I get better throttle response between shifts.

This is a video of BAD compressor surge, "on-throttle" compressor surge and this isn't happening to me. It occurs when you have a high-flowing turbo and a bottleneck somewhere between the compressor and the combustion chamber. Excess air flows back into the turbo, and because you're at WOT, the turbo is still spinning up/spooling and its "chopping up" this turbulent backwashed air.


+ YouTube Video
ERROR: If you can see this, then YouTube is down or you don't have Flash installed.
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Old 09-21-2013, 11:24 AM GhEttOrAiD is offline  
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The oil is clean and was freshly changed before I bought the car.. The coolant is clean.. The brakes need servicing (and calipers need replacing) so it'll be changed then.

It's not "ghettoing the car up" in fact I'm shocked and astounded that you'd attack me for deleting the BPV completely rather than going my usual route and slapping on an SSQV

Well, I've always been a fan of a nice BOV, they don't help you make more power, but they are important for longevity of components. I went and checked out what you are talking about beforehand to see why a block off place even exists, and to me it seems that they are trying to be different from the rest of the gas powered turbo world by "inventing" a "new" way of doing things. I do not think that it's the right way to go about it just so you don't lose a little power between shifts. It's also bad for the turbocharger. If the car really is so damn slow off-boost, you should consider upgrading the engine itself if you want to make it faster. Cams, compression, bigger valves, better head, ect. The turbo system should not be the ice cream in your sundae, the engine should be, with the boost being the cherry on top.

That's why I'm calling it ghetto.

Didn't you say earlier that you bypass valve leaks under boost? Is that the real reason you are doing this?
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