RazorWind
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RazorWind
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Mar 04, 2014 #801

GhEttOrAiD wrote:http://www.mr2.com/forums/threads/38451 ... -right-now

not to suggest that everything you read on the internet is true but it makes sense
I've read that thread before. Most of what it says is true, and in fact that's what I just told you to do.

The difference is, first, there is actually more than one ground wire in the engine bay from the factory. I know there are at least two, and I'm pretty sure there are four. The shop manual has detailed instructions for inspecting them.

Second, you don't need to add a ground cable in the frunk if the one that's already there is clean and in good condition. Detach it from the battery and use a little piece of sandpaper inside the terminal, and on the battery's terminal. Put it back on. Done.

You could accomplish the same thing Tom's thread tells you to do for $0 by just removing all the stock ground cables, sanding the terminals lightly, and then reinstalling them. No need for new wires at all, unless one of the original ones is missing.

Edit: I just remembered: the ground cable on the right connects to the engine side cover mounting point. IIRC, it's a black wire with yellow stripe.

That makes at least three:
1. On top of the transaxle. Connects to the aft firewall, as I recall.
2. Under the intake manifold. Also connects to the after firewall, I think.
3. Right side of the engine. I think the lower end is down near the alternator somewhere. The upper end goes on one of the tabs for the right-side engine side cover.
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GhEttOrAiD
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Mar 04, 2014 #802

yea we're basically on the same page then
BlisterDick;25482810 wrote:PLZ keep door unlock for roach and spider
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Jehannum
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Mar 04, 2014 #803

I'd check the positive battery cable, too. I've had those fail on two different cars (a Neon and my 300ZX). Both had corrosion that had worked its way into the cable, from a terminal, and the resistance that resulted from that caused the voltage to drop down near the other terminal (about 7V on my Z, and about 3V on the neon). Both caused no-start conditions.
Your powers are useless! I'm wearing my tin foil underwear!

1992 300ZX: Not stock, 433 RWHP
1971 240Z: Toyota front brakes, 123 RWHP
1967 Pontiac GTO: not stock.
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GhEttOrAiD
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GhEttOrAiD
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Mar 04, 2014 #804

Yeah, the positive battery cable is probably like 14 feet long too
BlisterDick;25482810 wrote:PLZ keep door unlock for roach and spider
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GhEttOrAiD
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Mar 05, 2014 #805

Welp car is safe and sound at the only MR2 outfit that isn't 5 hours away (and the one that's 5 hours away is booked until 2023)

Overall he wasn't happy with what he saw but expects the damage *just to get the car running, not to address the other hack jobbery he pointed out* to be under $500. Said all of the grounds in the engine bay looked fine and were fully intact.
BlisterDick;25482810 wrote:PLZ keep door unlock for roach and spider
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mikeawesome
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Mar 05, 2014 #806

did he say what the problem was
RIP Malamute
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GhEttOrAiD
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Mar 05, 2014 #807

He estimated 3 hours of shop time to diagnose + install a brand new oem starter (billing the starter at 200, I found it online for 140)

He hasn't actually gotten into it yet but I'll have an answer tomorrow morning.

But he pointed out a lot of distressing problems. Did say that $5000 was the right price for the car though.
BlisterDick;25482810 wrote:PLZ keep door unlock for roach and spider
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mikeawesome
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Mar 05, 2014 #808

n2b
RIP Malamute
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lollersk8s
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Mar 05, 2014 #809

Distressing problems being a top and bottom end rebuild?
Originally Posted by she nice
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GhEttOrAiD
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Mar 05, 2014 #810

Wasn't happy with the wiring job on the ECU

Spotted that my shift linkage transmission side was missing a bolt

Intercooler fan was not wired to anything

The list goes on. To make it "OEM quality" would be thousands of dollars and weeks of work. Hoping I can do this little by little.
BlisterDick;25482810 wrote:PLZ keep door unlock for roach and spider
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